A Celebration of Beef: MEATing of the Minds

I’ve eaten so much beef in the last week, that there is a serious chance I might actually turn in to cow.  But how do you turn down the kind of meals I’ve had of late? (Brazilian steak house, Ruth’s Chris VIP night for example). Two incredibly talented chefs and their teams put together a 7 course menu that would satisfy the most sophisticated foodie and the hungriest of cowboys.  Chefs David Kocab and Matt Mytro combined forces and creativity to put together a “Celebration of Beef,” part one of a two part partnership that puts Ohio beef on a pedestal.


The host for the first night was Restaurant Trentina, the University Circle location known for its innovative Menu Bianco, inspired by the Trentino region of Italy.  Mytro’s restaurant, Flour (Moreland Hills), will host part two.  The pair called it a tasting menu series, but the portions were more generous than your standard tasting meal (see the whole beef shin that came out family style to a table of just six!)


Before service began we were treated to beef charcuterie prepared by the in house chef for Certified Angus Beef Brand, Ashely Breneman.  Then the beef flood gates opened.


First course: Beef Tartare with smoked oysters, toasted yeast emulsion, and pickled radish.  Chef Kocab came out to the dining room to explain his first offering which used strip steak to put his spin on it.  It takes a brave stomach to start here, but I was all in.  And it was a great entry into this well known classic.


Second course: Beef Carpaccio with Nduja, bone marrow Laredo, lemon and shiso.  This was more bright and spicy than you would expect at first glance, and the perfect portion size.


Third course: Potato Gnocchi with pot roast, braised greens and ricotta salata.  This delivered that melt in your mouth flavor that you want from a comfort food that often gets a bad wrap from fine dining restaurants.  Not this time! This dish even made my kale-hating husband a believer in the super food.


Fourth course: Beefy Bucatini.  This dish fooled the eyes and the palate.  Chef Mytro said the mushroom bolognese didn’t actually contain any meat.  Instead they used mushrooms to provide the meaty mouth feel of a classic bolognese, and the pasta was cooked in beef broth to impart the beefy taste.  Genius.

Full yet? Yes, but that wasn’t stopping us.


Fifth course: Braised Beef Shin Peposo.  Made in their pizza oven, wrapped in a tender and tearable bread and served with an herb salad. This, to me, was the show stopper.  It was grand and impressive, served family style.  So. Damn. Good.


Sixth course: Short Rib with Farro, fermented tomato sugo and wood oven carrots.  I think I can count on one hand how many bites of vegetables I took during this meal.  #sorrynotsorry.  These carrots were a welcom respit from meat on meat on meat, as was the skillfully prepared faro.  But that’s not to take away from the short ribs which didn’t require a knife.


Seventh course: Bone Marrow Budino with ricotta cake, sour cream semifreddo and toffee. How do you incorporate beef into dessert? Make toffee with beef fat, of course! Flour’s pastry chef, Emily Laboue created a balanced sweet finish that incorporated the impossible (beef, as dessert) for a last course that even those of us who said we were stuffed, couldn’t help but finish.

Like what you’re reading?  Licking your lips?   You didn’t miss out. Round two of this Celebration of Beef is already on the calendar for May 1st, with a BRAND NEW MENU.  Call Flour for tickets.  Can’t wait to see what these beef ambassadors have in store.  

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Chef’s table at Table 45

If you haven’t been to Table 45 lately, or ever, make a point to. It’s a global treat for the senses. Sophisticated and modern, Chef Zack Bruell calls it his favorite restaurant space, and that’s saying a lot. The man is starting to lose count of his establishments, there are so many! 

table 45 chefs

I was invited, along with a few select others in the food media world, to taste the changes Chef Bruell is making under new Table 45 Chef Matthew Anderson, and new Executive Chef Michael Swann.  New and exciting details of this year’s Tour de Bruell were also revealed (keep reading!)

We were wined (with pairings for each plate) and dined (with a whopping 8 courses), and impressed with the knowledgeable and attentive staff.

table 45 sushi

The sparkling evening started with a glass of Von Schleinitz Secco Sparkling Dry Reisling, and assorted sushi out on the tranquil patio. The restaurant is inside the InterContinental Hotel, a Cleveland Clinic property. The environment is a welcome reprieve from hectic pace kept around the rest of the mini-city that is The Clinic.

table 45 chef swann

The group moved into the fabulous chef’s table for the remainder of our meal. The set up provided us with a front row seat for all the meal preparation. And the chefs accompanied the wait staff to explain each course and answer questions. You know I had one.

“How much does the international clientele and heart-healthy focus of the Cleveland Clinic play into the new menu?” The answer: quite a bit. Chef Anderson says Table 45 has always offered global cuisine, and still will. But he says they have also developed their dishes with capability of being “deconstructed” to accommodate various dietary restrictions, choices and allergies. So rather than limiting those who are cutting sodium, gluten free, dairy intolerant, etc. to just a few dishes, they are able to adjust most of the menu to please the patron. I appreciated the “choose your own adventure” approach to their offerings.

The second course was a vegan Caesar salad, made with a creamy tofu vinaigrette, nori crumbles and fried tofu as croutons. Imagine my husband’s surprise that he actually enjoyed tofu. It was paired with a lovely Chilean wine, Mayu.

For our third course, and one of my favorites, we were served a pan seared diver scallop with a chickpea puree (which ate like a slightly thicker hummus) and a raspberry glaze for the perfect acidic compliment. The Italian Conte Brandolini D’adda was a crisp partner to the dish.

The fourth course featured a goat cheese gnocchi (instead of using potato) which I had never had before. What a scrumptious substitute. It was sauced with a tomato fondue, arugula, basil and balsamic reduction. My only complaint was I wish there was more of it! We were poured a Baumard Savenierres. Honestly, I can’t remember much about this wine. But I don’t remember disliking any of them!

We continued our family style feast with a pan seared Chilean Seabass, always a favorite of mine. It sat on some smashed potatoes and a caper-tomato white wine broth which gave it a nice bite. The wine pairing here, another hit, Chanson Bourgogne Blanc.

As if we had room for more…the heavier entrees were now coming out. This roasted chicken with a mole rojo and Spanish rice was a standout for me. Something I don’t ever cook myself, and rarely order, but really enjoyed. And the wine for this sixth course was the table favorite, a Chateau Musar Juene Rouge from Lebanon. Who knew Lebanon made such great wine?!

The final savory course was my personal favorite, a grilled New York strip steak with a warm fingerling salad, wilted arugula, plenty of wild mushrooms and a port wine sauce. I am glad I paced myself up until this so I could have seconds! The wine was a velvety Rompicollo Sangiovese blend. Could’ve had three glasses of that.

And for our eighth and final course, the chefs put out a simple spoonful that satisfied our collective sweet teeth: a classic crème brulee paired with a Marchesi Di Barolo Moscato.

table 45 dessert

We were invited not only to share in this wonderful meal and see what these new chefs can do, but also to hear about this year’s Tour de Bruell. It’s the Amazing Race for Cleveland Foodies. The challenge is simple: eat at least one entrée at six of Chef Zack Bruell’s restaurants (Alley Cat, L’Albatros, Parallax, Chinato, Cowell & Hubbard and Table 45) between Memorial Day and Labor Day and get a card stamped at each stop. When your card is full, it’s entered into a hopper and the  grand prize winner is treated to a lavish four course meal for 8 at your home, cooked by Chef Bruell himself. This year there are also some additional incentives and fun elements to the promotion.

New this year: Finish the tour in the first 30 days and be entered to win a progressive dinner throughout several Zack Bruell’s Restaurants. Five lucky winners and their guests will be selected at random from submitted complete tickets to enjoy the chauffer-driven progressive dinner. And everyone who fills their ticket is invited to a complimentary VIP Party at Table 45 in September.

If that weren’t enough for you Bruell Restaurant Group groupies, there is also an exclusive wine tasting event, open to the public on June 6th. The Zack Bruell Restaurant Group has paired up with CBS Sports Commentator Jim Nantz’s acclaimed wine label, The Calling. The Sonoma Valley wines are the official wine partner of Tour De Bruell. Chef Bruell will host Nantz and his wine partner Peter Deutsch, starting at 6 p.m., as
they discuss The Calling at L’Albatros in University Circle. They will then move to Table 45 in the InterContinental Hotel, Parallax in Tremont and Alley Cat on the East Bank of the Flats. Each of these locations will feature complimentary tastings of several 90+ rated wines from The Calling.

Reservations for the wine tasting can be made with the individual restaurants.  I’ll be there! Will you?  I also plan to start my journey on the Tour de Bruell by the first week in June.  Better get dining!